More than history to Hobart

A small city without a sense of humour has set itself up for failure as a holiday destination – luckily, Hobart has it in spades.

Strange then that local tourist operators seem at pains to remind visitors that Australia’s second oldest city is less thriving metropolis, more regional centre. Whether an attempt to lower expectations or entice those looking for a suitably quiet destination, it’s really unnecessary when you realise what Hobart has to offer.

The bustling Salamanca Square is a perfect example of the colourful harbourside fair beneath Mt. Wellington. Where else could you head down to Saturday markets and have a chat with author/historian James Boyce – casually manning a stall – and then drink with a diverse crowd in the sandstone-enclosed bars to Billy Joel cover bands at night. It’s The Rocks on steroids with none of the unfortunate extras.

Restaurants like Ciuccio and Smolt (a must for breakfast) prove that the former culinary desert of Tasmania’s east coast is at an end, while North Hobart has boomed as its bohemian heart.

For the later hours, you’ll find that Hobartian humour comes in handy. A prominent visiting New York publication last year dubbed Hobart’s drag venue Les Girls one of the worst bars in the world, which is reason enough to visit its tawdry delights.

With seemingly little, if any, connection to the prominent drag troupe of the same name, owner and performer Sandie Lagore – a 68-year-old drag queen with emphysema – is one of those rare creatures of the night you imagine locals will be talking about for decades to come. Indeed, her famed performance at Les Girls’ launch two years ago, titled ‘Now you don’t, now you see it’, still scars local queers.

Like fellow Hobart gay club, Flamingos, the clientele mainly consists of young local straight women and their boyfriends – albeit a very relaxed and troubleless sort – who come for the music and safe environment. The light spattering of gay men and women are either visitors or a small band of teens who are yet to follow their peers to the sin cities of Melbourne and Sydney.

Alas, Hobart is not the domain for gay singles looking for a catch on the Apple Isle. But for couples looking for a most picturesque and relaxed-paced escape, there are so many options, especially if you have a car on hand.

For those with deep pockets, the Henry Jones Art Hotel is a must. You’ll find stunning examples of early European settlement both in the vibrant selection of artwork and the heritage-listed building itself. Indulgent features like the Kohler SOK overflowing spa bath won’t hurt either.

For those looking for a 24-hour vibe to their accommodation, Wrest Point is your place. Its cocktail bar, The Birdcage, is suitably camp with some interesting inclusions on the menu (the Ice Magic in my Cookies & Cream cocktail springs to mind). Again, keep that sense of humour in check at all times and you’ll have a scream.

All major domestic airlines fly to Hobart daily. Accommodation at the Henry Jones Art Hotel starts at $240-a-night and from approximately $108 at Wrest Point. Details: www.thehenryjones.com or www.wrestpoint.com.au